Colorado Canyon/Big Bend Ranch State Park: March 5, 2008

Now I get to gloat a little bit. I’m sitting at my campsite on the U.S-Mexico border also known as Rio Bravo or the Rio Grande. I am at the mouth of Colorado Canyon surrounded by red rock and volcanic debris formed at some unimaginable time. Texas Farm Road 170 is just a few hundred feet away, but I’ve only seen one other vehicle since I stopped here and that vehicle is parked next to mine. It’s a pickup camper inhabited by Alan and Bev. They came here from Birmingham, England, bought the camper and have been traveling the western states for several months. They are good neighbors, charming in the way that only the British can be. How fine it is to have these chance encounters with strangers who can quickly seem like old friends. I ask them to join me by a pinon wood fire that I have started, but Alan informs me that sitting around a campfire is an American thing that he will be happy to let me enjoy alone.
This is probably as remote a place as you could find in the continental states that is accessible by road. The temperature this afternoon reached 80 degrees and that was a welcome change from the cool weather that I have experienced up to now. Even with the the sun going down, I can sit outside in shirtsleeves to wait for the incredible star show that I know will be tonite’s entertainment. I can hear the river in the background echoing off the canyon walls. Rio is scouting the area to make sure that we will not be bothered by furry intruders. I know he is doing a good job, because we have seen none.
Yesterday was spent exploring the town of Marfa. It has for some years been the domain of Donald Judd, the artist who seems to own virtually every building in town with the exception of the Presido County courthouse, a beautiful pink stucco structure from the turn of the century. Judd has been instrumental in keeping this small ranch town alive since the 1970’s. It is a unique place, part ranch community, part artists enclave. American in some ways and typically Mexican in others. It is also the site of the El Paisano hotel which is spectacular in the classic style of early 20th century hotels of the west. The El Paisano is known as the place where the cast of “Giant” stayed when the iconic James Dean movie was being filmed around town. It’s great to imagine Elizabeth Taylor and Dennis Hopper lounging in the gracious lobby or having cocktails in the courtyard. It’s not one of my favorite movies, largely because I can never find James Dean believable as a successful oil magnate. When he supposedly ages from brash teenager to a guy in a suit with a fake moustache, I just have to quit watching. Nevertheless, it is a piece of Americana, and the hotel carries on the legend.
My home for one night in Marfa is the Thunderbird Motel which is a beautifully restored 50’s style motel. The rooms are simple and basic, yet they are upgraded with great lighting, cowskins on the floor and indian blankets on the bed. Retro cowboy chic.
Another attraction around town is the mystery of the “Marfa Lights”. About 9 miles out of town, there is an area that has been known for sightings of strange lights in the night sky since the late 1800’s. It’s a phenomenon that predates the flying saucer craze of the mid-twentieth century. There is even a modern veiwing platform out in the desert for those who want to watch and wait. I tried it for a while, but going to bed seemed more interesting.
So, yeah, Marfa is cool, but I did have problems finding food, and most importantly, I could not find a cup of coffee of any variety at 8:30 in the morning! To me that is not only painful, it’s just plain wrong!!!
Tomorrow I will be heading towards Presidio, Texas and then across the border into the Mexican state of Chihuahua. They better have the coffee brewing when I get there or there’s going to be trouble.
Till then
Adios amigos

the sign in the background made me laugh. it reminded me of an exhibition on edward hopper's work called "western motel".